Lucien Abbet

Lucien Abbet, nicknamed "Lulu" by his friends, is a prominent figure in the world of sport and alpine climbing. He was born in Valais, Switzerland, in 1951 into a farming family of ten children. From an early age, he was distinguished by a deep affinity with nature and a certain rejection of authority. He developed a passion for rock that transcended performance and self-improvement, transforming climbing into a true meditation and communion with the elements. After training in business and working briefly as an accountant, he decided at the age of 22 to abandon this obvious path to devote his life to the mountains, defying the social conventions of the time.

A very active route setter in the 1980s with rigorous lines, he distinguished himself in the climbing world for his extraordinary intuition for detecting new lines and enhancing the beauty of the Valais cliffs. He voluntarily equipped several hundred routes, bringing his own grading philosophy inspired by Ligurian and Monegasque traditions. His unacademic style is the result of intuitive creativity and a constant search for aesthetic gestures, earning him the admiration of his peers and the reputation of a "rock craftsman." Lucien Abbet explains his relationship with climbing: "By combining the mental and physical, it's a fantastic sport that creates an addiction. I would find it hard to do without it."

Lucien's life is marked by discretion and authenticity, preferring simple joys and freedom to professional ambition. He worked a series of challenging jobs, including acrobatic work, allowing him to climb almost year-round. His experience and expertise also opened the doors to filmmaking, where he specialized as a high-altitude safety expert, stunt double, and then as an actor in various films. He has appeared in films such as "Three Colors: Red" (1994), "The eXtremists" (2002), and "Welcome to Switzerland" (2004). His commitment to filmmaking, always focused on the technical and safety aspects rather than stardom, led him to collaborate with big names, including Catherine Destivelle on the Mali documentary "Séo!", where his technical and human support was crucial.

Lucien's personal life is punctuated by significant events. The tragic death of his cousin in an avalanche at the age of 23 instilled in him a cautious wisdom. His late relationship with his daughter Lucie, recognized through a DNA test at 23, adds emotional complexity to his already extraordinary journey. Lucien also harbors a passion for music, playing the diatonic accordion, and shares with his partner a love of travel and freedom. In winter, he leaves his Valais village to travel south in his van, fleeing the cold for warmer skies, in a perpetual quest for cliffs to explore and freedoms to celebrate.