Chongo Chuck

Chongo began climbing as a self-taught teenager in California. He was born on a U.S. military base in Japan and, in his own words, still remembers the fear he felt at birth. His father was a civil engineer, and Chongo was the eldest of seven children. He graduated from high school in Los Angeles and then spent a year studying undergraduate mathematics at the University of Arizona. Chongo speaks fluent Spanish and lived in Mexico for eight years in one of the capital's most dangerous neighborhoods, which even many Mexicans avoid. Chongo says the local narcos respected him as much as the climbers in Yosemite. But while smuggling cannabis across the border to the American side, he was imprisoned for several years, and any faith he still had in capitalist society was lost for good.

Known for his atypical vagabond lifestyle and his involvement in the climbing community, Tommy Caldwell, a slackline pioneer and developer of big wall climbing techniques, has compared him to Master Yoda from Star Wars. Chongo spent many years living illegally in Yosemite National Park, living on the fringes of society and developing a unique philosophy on climbing and life. Chongo Chuck is also famous for his writings and reflections on climbing, notably his book The Homeless Interpretation of Quantum Mechanics, which blends philosophy and humor. He has influenced many climbers with his unconventional approach and lifestyle on the fringes of society.

Chongo, "the monkey man" in Spanish slang, received his nickname from the sticky soles he once made from Mexican rubber for climbing shoes. He later repaired climbing shoes for climbers in Yosemite, and the value of his work was appreciated by those around him. Throughout his life, Chongo earned his living as a computer programmer, writer, and journalist. In addition to repairing climbing shoes, he designed and manufactured his own clothing brand. He was so successful that in 1995, park rangers began pursuing him for running an illegal textile business from his tent in the Hidden Valley campground.

In 2005, the verdict was delivered: "You have spent too much time in Yosemite." Climbers filled the courtroom to support their guru, but they were unable to overturn the verdict. After his expulsion from Yosemite Valley, Chongo Chuck moved to Sacramento, California, where he lived under a concrete bridge. More recent accounts from late 2021 and 2022 indicate that Chongo has been spotted at various climbing spots, including Hidden Valley Campground in Joshua Tree and Smith Rock in Oregon, where he sells his books and shares stories with climbers. He is also said to occasionally return to Yosemite for special projects or to meet with the climbing community.