Alexei Bolotov

Acting · 1963–2013 · Dvurechensk, Russia

Born on January 20, 1963, Alexey Bolotov, a Russian mountaineer, was recognized as one of the best Himalayan climbers of his generation. He took part in many incredible first ascents such as the Direttissima of the North Face of Jannu in 2004 and the great new line of the West Face of Makaly in 1997. Two courses which earned him a Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious award in mountaineering, to which must be added the nomination for his ascent of Thalay Sagar in 1999. They are all top routes, recognized not only in the world of mountaineering but also by the Russian Federation which awarded Bolotov the "Order of Courage" for his ascent of Makalu and the Homeland Service Medal II Grade award for his ascent of Lhotse Middle. in 2001.

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Lhotse was in fact the first giant of the Himalayas on which Bolotov climbed. While for obvious reasons his mountaineering career began on his "native mountains" such as Chantengri Peak (6995m) and Pobedy Peak (7439m), both in Kyrgyzstan, at the start of the new millennium Bolotov began to exploring the Himalayan peaks with a success rate that has few equals. Lhotse was followed by Everest in 2002, Dhaulagiri in 2005, Cho Oyu in 2006, K2 in 2007, Annapurna in 2008, Manaslu in 2009, Gasherbrum I and II in 2010, Broad Peak and the Kangchenjunga neinl 2011.

On Wednesday, May 15, 2013, Alexey Bolotov perished above the Khumbu Icefall at about 5600 m. The 50-year-old climber had reached base camp on the Nepalese side of the mountain in mid-April with the intention of laying down a new route on the southwest face of Everest in an alpine style with the Kazakh mountaineer Denis Urubko But, Bolotov perished just above the icefall, apparently in a fall due to a broken rope. The body was discovered by Sherpa and Denis Urubko and on Thursday it was recovered and transported by helicopter to Kathmandu thanks to Simone Moro and Maurizio Folini.